1998 Dodge Dakota Starter Wiring Diagram
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A couple of weeks ago I started having intermittent clicking when I turned the key to start my truck. If I turned it a few times, key dance, it'd crank over, but then a few days ago it was dead when I started it. In order to get home I had to pull the plug on the wire going to the starter from the PDC and, with a jumper from there to the positive post on the battery, she fired up.
What I've done so far:
- Replaced the starter with a new Denso.
- Replaced all the wiring to the starter (positive cable and power wire.)
- Replaced the starter relay ($18 at the stealership.)
- Replaced the ignition fuse in the PDC (just for shoots and giggles.)
- Lost my mind trying to figure out this issue!
At this point the truck will NOT start with the key, but WILL start perfectly with the jumper in place. I don't wanna keep doing that because I can image I might be causing other issues to arise.
So, my question is what else is there in the starting system that might be causing this? The only other thing I can think of is the ignition switch is bad. Any thoughts??
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Misadjusted shifter cable or neutral safety switch?
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How many keys do you have on the ring the D's keys are on? If you're like most folks, you probably have quite a few. All that weight will kill an ignition tumbler faster than a speeding bullet. If at all possible, only have the keys associated with the operation of the D on that ring. Also do this for security's sake (go to a fancy restaurant and give somebody the keys to YOUR kingdom all at one time and wait to find out how long it takes to clean out your house!) You should only give them the keys necessary to park your vehicle.
The actual ignition switch is behind the tumbler assembly in the column and it could also be bad. Also, as Tom said, the neutral safety switch or shifter cable adjustment can come into play here as well.
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+2 on the ignition switch. Remember the real switch is usually down low on the column and different than the lock cylinder that's visible up high.
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The neutral safety switch was also replaced not even a month ago and the plug to it was melted on it so it was replaced too. I guess my next step would be to replace the ignition switch. I'll post how it goes.
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You might double check the wiring repair on the Neutral Safety Switch before you start buying new stuff.
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Should be able to sort it out with a DMM or a test light.
I don't have schematics for your year, but roughly:
- One pin of the starter relay (probably "85") should be grounded when the transmission is in neutral and open (or nearly so) otherwise.
One pin of the starter relay (probably "86") should be at zero volts until the ignition switch is turned to START. Then it should go to 12v.
One pin of the starter relay (probably "30") should have +12V all the time.
One pin of the starter relay (probably "87") goes to the starter solenoid and should look like it's nearly grounded.
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
'98's have 3 pins with the center for the starter and the two ends for the reverse lights. I'll triple check it, but I'm 99.9% sure it's working right. at least it has since the new plug was installed. When the plug burned up, I also had a CEL that was cleared with installation of the new plug. At this point I'm stumped and she's gonna have to wait till it's not 19° out so I can crawl under her and start poking around for something that don't look right.
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I'm talking about the relay connections - pay attention. 
The relay is basically where it all comes together, so you should be able to quickly narrow down what's happening from that spot.
If someone has that page from the correct FSM (wiring->starting system) and can post it, you'll see what I mean.
?tom
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ahh, I see! I'll pay attention now.
I'll dig out my volt-meter in the AM and see what's going on in there.
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tomk said:
Should be able to sort it out with a DMM or a test light.
I don't have schematics for your year, but roughly:
- One pin of the starter relay (probably "85") should be grounded when the transmission is in neutral and open (or nearly so) otherwise.
One pin of the starter relay (probably "86") should be at zero volts until the ignition switch is turned to START. Then it should go to 12v.
One pin of the starter relay (probably "30") should have +12V all the time.
One pin of the starter relay (probably "87") goes to the starter solenoid and should look like it's nearly grounded.
tomk said:
I'm talking about the relay connections - Pay attention
If someone has that page from the correct FSM (wiring->starting system) and can post it you'll see what I mean.
Directly from my 98 Durango FSM.
Gotta love the DOC? like no place else on earth? virtual or otherwise.
IndyD
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There should be a diagram that looks roughly like the attached diagram from my '01 FSM which will show the whole path to the starter.
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks everyone for the diagrams. I do have a copy of the '98 FSM, but it's on my laptop that's on it's way in for repair. :|
UPDATEI managed to get into my email where Adam (scrh4me) sent me the 98 FSM.
- pin 85 is the blk/wht wire that goes to the park neutral switch.
pin 86 is power from the ignition switch so I should have 12v when the switch is in the START position.
pin 87 goes to the starter motor.
pin 30 is constant 12v from the PDC.
With that said, my question is this. Should I be getting voltage from pin 85 with the truck on? If so how much?
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pin 85 should short to ground when the transmission is in neutral or park, open circuit otherwise.
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Okay, I went outside and did some testing with a test light and here's what I found:
- pin 85, the blk/wht wire that goes to the park neutral switch, tested fine. I hooked the ground from to my test light to it and it only came on in park and neutral.
pin 86, power from the ignition switch, should have 12v when the switch is in START position and when I put the positive to the test light and the negative to the battery the light came on when I turned the key to start.
pin 87, goes to the starter motor, and when running a positive jumper to the terminal the starter motor comes to life!
pin 30, constant 12v from the PDC, and when I put the positive to the test light and the negative to the battery the light came on.
So it looks like I've narrowed it down to 3 options.
- Bad relay, but I've put in 3 NEW ones from the dealer and still have the same situation.
- Bad connection at the pins the relay goes into.
- I noticed in the diagram the blk-wht wire from the PNS switch splits off and makes a run to the PCM. Is it possible the PCM might be telling something not to start when it should?? Just a thought.
Also if I run a jumper from pin 86 to 87 the truck will start with the key.
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Jumping 86-87 connects the starter solenoid directly to the ignition key with no relay. That means the switched starter feed to the relay is plenty good (unless you blew the fuse testing it) and the relay-solenoid connection is good.
Next test, jump 30-87 and see if the starter runs (this connects PDC +12 directly to the solenoid.) If that works, then the PDC +12 can carry the current.
Then see if you can jump 86-ground with the relay in the socket (maybe by partially unplugging the relay) which will bypass the neutral safety switch so the key runs the starter directly. If this fails, the relay is bad (we've tested all the other paths at the socket.) If however this works, the problem is somewhere in the path to ground thru the neutral safety switch.
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Okay, question tho. I already jumped 30 to 87 and it started fine. I also took a spare driving light and hooked the positive to the battery and the negative to the ground for the PNS switch and, when I turned the key on with it in park, the light came on, went off in reverse, came on again in neutral, and went off in drive, 2, and 1. Doesn't that prove a good ground in the neutral safety switch feed? I'll still jump 86- ground just to see the outcome tho.
Also, currently when I try to start it, there's a click coming from the area of the PCM if that maters any.
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Just trying to make sure on the neutral safety switch. It might have a good enough connection to light a test light, but not enough to pull in the relay.
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sorry I can't be of much help, those electrical gremlins are a %^&*!
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Problem Solved!
Turns out the connector for the black/white wire was loose in the PDC and, when I'd put in the relay, it'd push it out so it wasn't making the connection. Once I put the relay in and pushed the connector back up, she fired right up!
Thanks to everyone for the input, just glad it's fixed!
Source: https://www.dodgedurango.net/threads/starting-problems.13417/
Posted by: fabianwolperss.blogspot.com
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